Beginning with a 300-mile bush-flight over Alaska's Brooks Range, this arctic paddling expedition takes us down a wild, pristine river along the western boundary of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, through four mountain ranges--the Philip Smith, Franklin, Shublik and Sadlerochit Mts. The Canning River, and its western tributary, the Marsh Fork, flow north, carving their way through rugged limestone canyons, and over small rocky rapids. We find spectacular geology and fun whitewater along the Marsh Fork's upper reaches, as the river pinches through canyons of uplifted ancient seabeds. The rugged beauty of the upper Marsh Fork has inspired many an artist to linger in these convoluted peaks. At the confluence with the Canning River, the valley opens up into a broad U-shaped valley.

The main stem of the Canning runs east and north of the Marsh Fork. This year's adventure takes us 90 miles down the main Canning, from the mountains to the coastal plain, and across the Staines River delta to the edge of the Beaufort Sea, where thousands of caribou seek breezy, insect-free habitat during July on gravel bars and coastal spits.

As we descend the river, we take time to explore the mountains, side valleys, tundra and lakes.

The Canning River is a surreal emerald green, so clear that we see arctic char and grayling swimming twelve feet down. For the birder, there are over 80 species of birds, including the elusive grey-headed chickadee. Birds of prey find the river corridor attractive for nesting; we're likely to see golden eagles, peregrine falcons, rough-legged hawks, and gyrfalcons. Four of the five arctic species of loons breed here.

The river valley harbors a small population of muskoxen, and both the Porcupine and Central Arctic caribou herds frequent the lower river in July. With luck, we'll intercept the herd, along with moose, grizzly bears, wolves, and foxes. A protected microclimate has allowed a small grove of balsam poplar to flourish in the Canning Valley; nearby lies a year-round spring.

This is a hiker's paradise, as well as an exciting paddling river, with good traveling conditions and fast current throughout. We'll have to put in some long paddling days to reach the coast, but the effort is well worth it. Standing on the edge of the delta, with views back to the Brooks Range is, in a word, inspiring.