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Alaska: Kongakut River: Mountains to the Beaufort Sea

Location: Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Brooks Range, Alaska
Trip Length: 11 days (11 days/10 nights camping)
Activities: Paddle rafting* on Class II-III whitewater; day hikes of any length over trailless, uneven terrain. Wildlife and scenic photography. *We invite intermediate or advanced canoeists to paddle one of our stable 2-person inflatable canoes.
Dates: June 23-July 3, 2008
Price: $4495 from Fairbanks
Rating: M+

Join us on our signature trip--and what we believe to be the Arctic Refuge's premier river--an 85-mile paddling journey from the headwaters of the Kongakut River in the Romanzof Mountains, down the full length of the river to the shores of the Beaufort Sea. This trip takes us to the northwestern corner of Alaska, to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge Alaska's largest and wildest, its 19.6-million acres encompassing the full range of arctic ecosystems. Each year, the Porcupine caribou herd travels from wintering grounds in Canada's Yukon Territory to calving grounds on Alaska's slim coastal plain between the Brooks Range and the Arctic Ocean. In June, thousands of animals stream down the Kongakut valley. The tundra is covered with wildflowers, the air alive with bird song, the light never-ending. We regularly see wolves, Dall sheep, grizzly bears, foxes, and the occasional muskox or wolverine. More than seventy bird species summer in Kongakut country; we commonly see golden and bald eagle, peregrine falcon, Lapland longspur, golden plover, and Pacific, Arctic and red-throated loon.

On June and early July Kongakut trips, we can just about guarantee that you'll encounter the summer migration of the Porcupine caribou herd, and you'll share the magic of 24-hour daylight and the explosion of bird, animal, and plant life in the arctic summer.

Late July or early August trips may catch the circling back of the herd, as they head across a verdant green landscape to the south side of the Brooks Range. August trips take in the glory of autumn, as the land turns gold and red, and wildlife often moves down to the river to feed. We find grizzly bears fattening on berries, moose in the willows, numerous Dall sheep, straggler caribou, and the occasional wolf pack or wolverine roaming the valleys. Arctic char move up the river from the Arctic Ocean, and this is the best time of the year to cast a line in the Kongakut's deep, clear pools. The area offers superb day hiking. River days alternate with full layover days to explore side canyons and ridges under endless daylight.

Our trip begins with a spectacular 300-mile bush flight over Alaska's Brooks Range. From headwaters to the ocean, we experience every Arctic Slope ecosystem from mountains, to foothills, coastal plain, coastal estuary, and finally, to offshore barrier reefs fronting the Beaufort Sea. The river presents twisting, shallow braids, a taste of whitewater, and tight rock canyon walls, with ice shelves to maneuver. Beyond the last foothills, the river spreads into myriad channels, and we cross the coastal plain, encountering a vastness that you can only appreciate by being here. Ice mirages challenge our perspective as we draw closer to the sea. Bird activity increases; waterfowl and shorebirds are everywhere.

The ocean's icepack melts back, allowing ringed seals, beluga whales, and bowhead whales to pass near the coast. We camp on a long, pencil-thin island embracing a normally calm estuarine lagoon. We wander on beaches in the footsteps of polar bears (and have had chance encounters with them face to face upon occasion) and paddle along the northern shore of the Arctic Refuge coastal plain. This edge of the continent is dynamic and exotic; sea lice and zooplankton teem along the shores; waterfowl fill the air, and sea ice piles up into fantastic shapes. Standing on the edge of North America, with the Brooks Range as a backdrop, is simply awe-inspiring. The Arctic Refuge coast is unique and special. For many of our participants, our time on the coast is the highlight of an amazing experience.

If you prefer a shorter expedition down the Kongakut, see our 10-day Kongakut River: Canyons and Caribou

"Our trip down the Kongakut to the Arctic Ocean was the greatest adventure of my life. I will never forget it."
-N Gilbrough, Washington

"I can't tell you enough what a won derful experience Alaska was for me this summer and I can't thank you enough for leading such a fabulous trip."
-C. Jacobs, Louisiana

"The trip was great! Absolutely wonderful! It was tough at the end but well worth it."
-T. Schleich, California

Itinerary
Day 0 Travel to Fairbanks, Alaska. The group generally plans to meet for dinner the night before the trip to go over final trip details of our adventure trip in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, and to get acquainted. Overnight accommodations are on your own, but we can help you with suggestions and bookings at our favorite bed and breakfasts and hotels in Fairbanks.

Day 1 Trip participants meet in the early morning at the small airport in Fairbanks, where we pack all our gear onto a small commercial plane, and fly 160 miles north, over the Steese and White Mountains and the Yukon River, to Arctic Village, a small Gwich'in settlement (100 people) situated on the banks of the Chandalar River on Venetie Indian Tribal lands, surrounded by the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. The village offers an educational cultural experience. Alternately, we begin our trip by flying across the Brooks Range to the Inupiat village of Kaktovik on the Beaufort Sea.

We meet our bush pilot here, and fly out in groups of 2 to 5 across the Brooks Range, flying over miles and miles of seemingly endless mountain peaks and valleys to the heart of the Arctic Refuge. We land on a small gravel bar along the river, about 10 miles north of the Arctic Divide. Here in the high country, we hike and explore, looking for Dall sheep, wolves, grizzly bears, wildflowers. The Kongakut boasts the highest concentration of nesting golden eagles known in Alaska.

Days 2-9 On the river. We raft through a corridor of emerald mountains, dodging aufeis (shelves of overflow ice) and with luck, encountering herds of caribou, paddling rafts 75 miles down the river to the Arctic Ocean. The Kongakut is strikingly scenic, as it carves through a deep mountain gorge with striated rock. The river is generally a lively clearwater stream -- fast and challenging, with rocky r apids and braided channels. The river has many shallow channels; at low water, we may have to hop in and out of the boat to pull it off rocks. We spend 6-7 days on the water, with time at day's end to hike. We camp on gravel bars. Our schedule on the Kongakut will be flexible, since we have 24 hours of daylight! Four layover days allow time for exploring side valleys, mountain peaks, photography, wildlife viewing, wildflower identification, exploring valleys, or just relaxing in this place of awesome vistas. We eventually arrive at a big bend in the river -- Caribou Pass. If there's time, we climb a high promontory ridge with views out to the Beaufort Sea.

The Kongakut lies entirely within designated wilderness, so it is protected from its headwaters all the way to the Beaufort Sea. We stop and hike in Caribou Pass, a broad, low swath of tundra at the edge of the foothills that has served as a migratory route for the Porcupine caribou herd for millennia. The last 39 miles takes us beyond the last foothills and across the arctic coastal plain, where we may encounter more aufeis, lots of caribou, cold north winds, and occasionally frigid fog off the ocean. We reach the end of the Kongakut's broad delta, inside a natural barrier reef of islands, where thousands of birds nest. The reefs are littered with driftwood from Canada's Mackenzie River. We paddle our boats inside the reef, ending our adventure at Icy Reef, or, if the weather is in our favor, we may continue east, stopping to the explore the remains of old Inupiat sod houses and skin tent sites at Pinuqsraluk; with luck, we'll observe ringed seals, and unusual seabirds. Occasionally, we see a polar bear.

Day 11 From our last camp, our pilot makes a classic Alaska bush pilot landing on a rough patch of gravel, and flies us to Barter Island, where we pause in the small Inupiat village of Kaktovik, hiking out to the whale boneyard, and birding on the tundra and along the coast. We are at the whims of our pilot and the weather. If bad weather prevents an early pick-up, we may spend an extra night in the Refuge, or in Kaktovik. If all goes well, we arrive back in Fairbanks by 6:30 p.m., and often get together for a final no-host dinner.

TRIP DIFFICULTY: The Kongakut is largely Class II, except for a short section of Class III whitewater; other sections are quite calm. Everyone helps paddle our rafts with the assistance of a boat guide, 3 to 5 persons in a raft. Previous rafting experience is not necessary; we provide instruction. Upper body strength is a plus for paddle rafting, aerobic fitness is a prerequisite for any expedition.

Included in trip costs
  • All transportation beyond Fairbanks
  • All meals in the field
  • Boats, paddles, life jackets, dry bags and other boating gear
  • Group cooking, camping, medical and safety equipment (We bring such items as a kitchen shelter, emergency radio, dry bags for each participant, bear repellent spray, water filter and first aid kit)
  • Expert leadership
Not included in trip costs
  • Lodging before or after trip or "weather delay" lodging
  • Extra meals you might choose to purchase in a town or village while we are awaiting air transport
  • Sleeping bag and pad, and personal equipment
  • Excess baggage charges
Call or E-mail us for the complete packet on this expedition.




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Equinox Wilderness Expeditions | 2440 E. Tudor Road, #1102, Anchorage, AK 99507
Phone: (604) 222-1219 | E.mail: info@equinoxexpeditions.com
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