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Stikine River Canoeing and Alaska's Inside Passage by Ferry


Location: Northern BC and Southeast Alaska
Trip Length: 13 days/12 nights, including one night camping in Wrangell and berth for one night on the Alaska ferry between Wrangell and Skagway.
Activities: Canoeing on a swift glacial river. Day hikes of over uneven terrain with no trails. Wildlife and scenic photography. Soaking in hot springs. Alaska Marine Highway trip from Wrangell to Skagway. Van tour from Skagway to Whitehorse.
Dates: July 15-29, 2012
Price: $6230 from Whitehorse, Yukon Territory
Rating: M+

In northwestern British Columbia, and flowing through Alaska's Tongass National Forest, the Stikine River is the fastest navigable and free-flowing river in North America. The coastal Tlingit people called this waterway the 'Stikine,' or meaning 'Great River.' The Stikine is one of most diverse and dramatic 'canoeable' rivers on the West Coast of North America. We traverse the lower 130 miles of the 300-mile-long river, from the historic Gold Rush settlement of Telegraph Creek, to tidewater, and across Frederick Sound to the fishing town of Wrangell, and then travel by ferry up Alaska's Inside Passage to Petersburg, Sitka, Juneau, and on to the Gold Rush town of Skagway, and then back to Whitehorse by van. Our trip begins in Whitehorse, Yukon with a spectacular flight to Telegraph Creek.

A world-class wilderness, the Stikine River showcases a combination of spectacular peaks, calving glaciers, a natural hot springs and an abundance of wildlife, all native to BC's Interior cedar and hemlock forests and the western hemlock forests of Southeast Alaska. This is some of the richest wildlife habitat in North America, with grizzly/brown bears, wolves, moose, wolves and mountain goats, as well as bald eagles and many species of migratory birds. The Stikine supports all five salmon species (sockeye, king, chum, coho, and pink), plus cutthroat and steelhead trout, and Dolly Varden char.

A hundred years ago, John Muir traversed the Stikine River Valley, finding 'a Yosemite 100 miles long.' Today, it's still as Muir found it--a wild valley bisected by stream channels, sloughs, meadows and ponds, and rimmed by the nearly vertical Coast Range, whose glaciated peaks rise seven thousand feet above the valley. Unfortunately, there is a rush to mine the Stikine and Iskut drainages for copper. There's no time like now to get to know the river, and to lend your support to protect this important ecosystem.

Join us for a fast-paced canoe or kayak trip down the Stikine, with time to explore the forest, mountains, lakes and glaciers that calve into fresh water.

We take time to paddle up a slough to Chief Shakes Hot Springs, where we find an open-air soaking tub surrounded by wilderness.

TRIP DIFFICULTY:While not whitewater, the Stikine is a swift, high-volume glacial river with multiple channels and a number of side sloughs to navigate. A canoe or kayak is a perfect way to experience the river; beginning paddlers welcome.

An adventuresome spirit is important. You must be agile enough to get into and out of boats on rocky or muddy shorelines. You will do a fare share of walking and carrying of equipment from boats to camp. You must be willing and able to help carry 50-pound 2-person canoes up above the high water line.

TRIP EQUIPMENT:We paddle in 2-person canoes. Some travelers may prefer to paddle in a 32-foot Voyageur canoe that carries five paddlers. We can help you choose.

Itinerary
Day 0 Travel to Whitehorse on your own. Check into your hotel. Pre-trip meeting at a local inn in the evening. Hotel costs and meals while in Whitehorse are not included in the trip fee. There will be a chance for last minute questions concerning clothing, gear, packing and other details.

Day 1 Meet 8 am in the hotel lobby after breakfast (not covered). After driving to the airport we will fly to the gold rush town of Telegraph Creek on the Stikine River downstream of the Grand Canyon of the Stikine. Historically, Telegraph Creek has served as a Hudson's Bay post, a mission, a jumping-off place for more than 10,000 gold-rush stampeders and as a Thaltan First Nations community. The lower level of town, along the riverbank, is relegated to the church and commerce, while the Tahltan village is spread out on the plateau above. We have time to wander around Telegraph Creek to absorb the history and culture before loading the canoes and launching for a short paddle to our first camp in the vicinity of Tsikhini River.

Day 2 We float by Native fish camps and the near-ghost town of Glenora, with an option to stop for a visit. The town once had a population of 10,000 and was the head of steamship navigation. From here the river begins to cut through the highly glaciated Coast Range. Camp will be in the vicinity of Jackson's Flats. The river carries us swiftly downstream, and we enter a beautiful canyon. The Coast Mountains hem in the river, and we stop to explore when the mood and place beckon.

Day 3 The swift flowing but smooth river takes us deep into the mountains. Increasingly larger mountains appear on the horizon and we watch for grizzlies, moose and mountain goats. Camp will be in the vicinity of Little Canyon.

Day 4 Glaciers are a common sight as we descend into the Flood River Valley.

Day 5-7 The river broadens and braids. Flood and Mud Glaciers are but two of the ice caps that dominate the valleys feeding the river in this stretch. Seals may be seen in the main channel at this point as they follow the spawning salmon. We reach Glacier Creek on Day 5 or 6. A short hike through the lush overhanging moss of the cathedral-like forest brings us to the lake, formed as the glacier receded, leaving a water-filled basin. Those who portage their canoe the short distance across the old terminal moraine to the lake have the opportunity to paddle among the massive icebergs calved from the face of the Great Glacier. Once much closer to the Stikine (and according to Tlingit legend, as well as geologic evidence the glacier once extended across the Stikine), the Great Glacier is now two miles from the main river.

This portion of the Stikine passes into the Coastal Western Hemlock and Mountain Hemlock biogeoclimatic zones. Even at this latitude there is a rich rain forest ecosystem supporting eagles and ravens, steelhead and salmon, bears, foxes, wolves, mountain goats and numerous other mammals. Wetland habitats provide habitat for moose and waterfowl. Sitka spruce, cottonwoods, yellow cedar, white fir and abundant wildflowers are present. Nearly a million migrating birds of the Pacific Flyway use the delta and wetlands.

Day 8 Back on the river we pause for fresh salmon at an interesting local fish camp. We camp in the vicinity of Goat Creek Islands.

Day 9 Tongass National Forest begins at the American border. Not far downstream, we follow a series of channels 4 miles up the Ketili River to Chief Shakes Hotsprings. For some, this is one of the highlights of the trip! Some of you may never want to leave the hot springs! The U.S. Forest Service has modestly developed these natural sources of hot water with a boardwalk and cedar hot tubs. On a clear day, the view from the springs is stunning. We paddle up Shakes Slough to Shakes Glacier. This is a dramatic spot, hemmed in by dramatic cliffs, and 7,200-foot Castle Mountain.

Day 10 Downstream the river begins to widen around islands that guard the Stikine estuary. Today, we enter the Stikine's delta. Deposition of river sediments over millennia have created a fertile oasis. Here, the Pacific CoastÕs migratory flyway finds a focal point. The rich biotic conditions also provide a fertile environment for fish and invertebrates. At low tide, the delta can be impassable. Using the tides, we follow braided channels and estuaries, entering Frederick Sound. Wildlflowers, birds, sea life, all continue to amaze.

On an island out in the delta of the Stikine lies the fishing community of Wrangell, Alaska, formerly the site of a Tlingit village. It was first settled by Russian traders in 1834 and called Fort Dionysius. The name was changed to Fort Stikine in 1840 when the Alaska Panhandle was leased to Hudson's Bay Company. When Russia sold Alaska to the US in 1867, the name was changed to Fort Wrangell. Both a fishing and logging community and small a port, the town has seen boom and bust of its logging industry and various fishing industries. River travelers receive a warm welcome, but it doesn't take much to rouse a debate among locals over resource-based economies and the security of the community. Hopefully they will find a way to continue living in harmony with the Stikine. We camp here and explore the town.

Day 11 We board the ferry and leave Wrangell in the afternoon, traveling up the Inside Passage, Alaska's marine highway. We tour Petersburg, Sitka and the state capital of Juneau. Accommodations are ship berths with showers. Meals (not included in trip price) are available on the ferry. Passports are required for identification as we leave the US and return to Canada.

Day 12 We arrive in the Gold Rush town of Skagway, Alaska late in the evening. Accommodations and meals on your own, but we can arrange your hotel reservation. Explore town on your own, or a no-host group dinner at one of Skagway's fine eateries.

Day 13 Mid-morning, we drive through White Pass with its dramatic scenery, to Whitehorse by early afternoon. Flight home may leave anytime after 4 pm. Or, relax and spend the night in Whitehorse (accommodations on your own).

Call or E-mail us for the complete packet on this expedition.




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